The history of Breguet spans four centuries rich in inventions and innovations.
So rich, in fact, that they represent a substantial part of the entire history of Swiss watchmaking, if not of Swiss engineering as a whole.
Putting aside those stories of old for a moment, the watch on offer - judged on its own merits - eloquently showcases why the brand is regarded as one of the pillars of Haute Horlogerie.
The Breguet Marina Royal Alarm is equipped with a polished 45 mm case fashioned out of 18k rose gold and topped by a satin-finished bezel with mirror-polished bevels, notched minute markers, and a bold luminous 12 o'clock index. The dial is presented in a dark-rhodium grey and is also made of solid 18k gold, but its tone contrasts the bright luster of the case, and the waved guilloché motif at its center overpowers its finishing. Applied rose-gold Roman numeral indices adorn the dial, with luminous dot minute pips and diamond-shaped 5-minute markers guiding the polished Breguet-style hands between them. The rubber-clad crown at the 4 o'clock position controls the blue LumiNova-tipped hand for the 12-hour alarm, while the ridged button at 8 o'clock toggles it on and off. Since blue is the color that denotes a connection with the alarm complication, the power reserve display for the alarm at 10 o'clock also comes in a delightful light blue - and so does the alarm chapter ring.
Inside, proudly showcased by the sapphire caseback, the Breguet Caliber 519r automatic - a 36-jewel acoustic-alarm movement that operates at 28.800 vph and has an approximate power reserve of 45 hours - is ticking confidently away. Naturally, this marvel of Swiss horological engineering was manufactured entirely in-house.
Founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier, Switzerland, Chopard has been churning out high-end watches and jewelry for a fair while. In fact, they've developed something of a tendency to blur the line between the two, which has resulted in an array of impressive, sometimes avant-garde timepieces.
The one on offer here, the Alpine Eagle, stands as the manufacturer's first foray into the world of integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches, and it is undeniably an impressive achievement.
Some will surely accuse the Alpine Eagle of being too derivative because of its resembles to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, but to our minds, that wouldn't be entirely fair. On the contrary, this model is backed by a rich history of its own - one that traces a its roots back to the 1980 Saint Moritz, which Karl-Friedrich Scheufele conceived at the tender age of 22.
Envisioned and personally designed by him, the Alpine Eagle draws inspiration from Scheufele's passion for the Alps and his admiration for the eponymous royal bird that rules over them. As is evidenced by its gorgeous textured dial, the watch comes comfortably close to living up to the standards set by the big boys of Haute Horology - even if Grand Seiko aren't exactly sweating in their seats. The case is expertly constructed, featuring a blend of finely brushed and mirror-polished surfaces that together highlight its dynamic architecture. The same holds true for the bracelet, which is a perfect extension of the case in every way.
At a balanced 41 mm in diameter, the watch wears remarkably light and will effortlessly fit under the tightest of cuffs.
Inside, proudly showcased by the sapphire caseback, the beautiful Chopard 01.01-C is ticking tranquily away.
The railways and horology have had a rather long shared history.
Nearly a century before timepieces had taken to men's wrists, train conductors were already carrying mechanical pocket watches that were made to be readable at a glance in both daylight and under a flashlight beam.
Nearly a century before timepieces had taken to men's wrists, train conductors were already carrying mechanical pocket watches that were made to be readable at a glance in both daylight and under a flashlight beam.
In the lingo of today, a watch like that would be referred to as a tool watch.
Conductors' watches had to be as accurate as they were legible, since whole railway systems were set up in accordance with their melodious ticking. Those timepieces' minimal, black-on-white aesthetic - one originally serving a functional purpose - is still evoked by designers looking back at this exciting era in watch making. where mechanical watches occupied a position of vital importance within society.
Among the many railway-related models coveted by contemporary collectors, few have remained as enduringly popular as Universal Genève's Ferrovie Dello Stato* watch. Its lasting appeal stems partly from the brand's reputation as one of the most prolific and innovative manufacturers of its era, and partly from the high standards to which the watch was crafted. However, what truly sets it apart is the story behind how and why it came to be.
Universal Geneve was commissioned to design and build the Series 1 FS watch a few months after the conclusion of World War II. At the time, the Italian State Railways were undergoing a grand overhaul, which was part of a larger plan concerned with revitalizing Italy after the infrastructural and cultural devastation of the war.
You see, the Italians have long known that the beauty of art and fine craftsmanship can elevate, heal, and restore - as is apparent throughout so much of their culture. This attitude is also evident in the State Railways' decision to spare no expense for the men who'd sacrificed everything for their country and needed some revitalizing of their own. They approached the manufacturer whose watches adorned catalogues, billboards, and building facades across Europe, and the rest is, as they say, history.
The Series 2 example on offer here dates to 1972 and is in superb condition. Its case remains knife-edge sharp, and its dial is well-preserved and fully authentic (i.e. has never been refinished or cleaned). What's more, this watch features no replacement parts and shows no signs of tampering whatsoever. The movement within, the in-house cal. 64, was always designed to be a sturdy and dependable workhorse, so it's no surprise that it's still, after all these years, keeping excellent time.
The Series 2 example on offer here dates to 1972 and is in superb condition. Its case remains knife-edge sharp, and its dial is well-preserved and fully authentic (i.e. has never been refinished or cleaned). What's more, this watch features no replacement parts and shows no signs of tampering whatsoever. The movement within, the in-house cal. 64, was always designed to be a sturdy and dependable workhorse, so it's no surprise that it's still, after all these years, keeping excellent time.
*(Italian State Railways)
Ever since it made its debut at Basellworld 2012, the Black Bay has dominated the diver's watch market, and it's hardly difficult to see why. Not only is it an excellent all-rounder backed by a history that traces its roots to non-other than Rolex SA, but it also comes at a more accessible price than its larger-than-life sibling, which makes it the perfect choice for anyone looking to dip their toes in the vast ocean that is luxury watches.
The ref. 79230R-0003 on offer here features a classic 41 mm steel case topped by a vinous red bezel that highlights the dark dial it encircles. The latter is adorned with a golden minute track and script and furnished with a set of geometrical luminescent indices that complement the unmistakable Snowflake hands. The finishing of the case and three-link Oyster bracelet is a masterful blend of brushed and polished surfaces separated by beveled edges, which rivals Rolex's best work in terms of light diffusion.
Inside, protected by the solid caseback, the in-house caliber MT5602 - a masterfully-crafted automatic movement that boasts a power reserve of 70 hours - is ticking confidently away.
The ref. 79230R-0003 on offer here features a classic 41 mm steel case topped by a vinous red bezel that highlights the dark dial it encircles. The latter is adorned with a golden minute track and script and furnished with a set of geometrical luminescent indices that complement the unmistakable Snowflake hands. The finishing of the case and three-link Oyster bracelet is a masterful blend of brushed and polished surfaces separated by beveled edges, which rivals Rolex's best work in terms of light diffusion.
Inside, protected by the solid caseback, the in-house caliber MT5602 - a masterfully-crafted automatic movement that boasts a power reserve of 70 hours - is ticking confidently away.
